Today was fabulous. It was one of those days where you just meet a strange assortment of characters. I went to Hammamet by myself on the train (which I was very proud of...i like feeling independent) to take pictures of the medina for my research project. On the way there I sat next to a really nice guy who spoke very good english. first of all, he saved me from being schemed because this man had come by and dropped a paper with what looked like a sura from the qur'an on it, and it was pretty so i was about to put it in my purse. but this nice young man was kind enough to let me know that this man would be coming back to ask us to pay for the piece of paper, that it was a trick to get you to by it. so i avoided paying for some qur'anic script. then we started talking and it turned out he and his girlfriend (who he met three years ago when she was in tunisia on a study abroad program with lisbon university) were in the process of getting visas to move to Canada. So I told him I was from Canada and we talked about that for a while. All in all he was just friendly and not creepy and helped me figure out where i needed to get off to go to Hammamet.
When I got off the train I had to catch another train which would take me to Hammamet, and on this train I sat next to a very cute little boy and his mother. His mom was encouraging him to speak english to me (as in, "i am hungry" "how are you?" "I am thirsty") so i told them that i also spoke french and some arabic. but the little boy apparently did not want to speak english or arabic and proceeded to tell me in rapid arabic about his dvd "Cars." Thankfully his mother translated into french for me that this movie was about clean cars, and they had eyes to see, but they were not humans, they were machines with robots inside. it was very cute.
So when I got to Hammamet I took a taxi to Yasmine Hammamet which is the brand new super-touristy part with the fake medina. wandering through the medina was slightly frustrating because every time i stopped to take a picture, one of the vendors would try to talk to me; trying to convince me to look in their shop, trying to get my number, or joking that it cost 2 dinar to take a picture. But i did get some good pictures and a very nice man let me use the bathroom in his restaurant. Then I headed back to regular Hammamet and went to the old medina which is right on the water and surrounded by a turkish kasbah/fort. It was much nicer and more relaxed than the first one although it was still pretty touristy. Also I was kind of disgusted by these "trains" that pulled up outside bringing loads of people from Yasmine hammamet. They were essentially a bunch of golf carts strung together and painted in lurid colours. I actually saw three different ones come while I was eating lunch in a restaurant in the medina with a terrace that looked out onto the beach. It was late afternoon so I was the only one in the restaurant (which was kind of fancy...with cloth napkins folded into fans, etc) and the waiter was incredibly sweet.
From there I caught a taxi with the intent of heading back to the hammamet train station, but the driver told me the station where I had switched trains wasn't far and it would save me a lot of hassle to go directly there. The taxi driver was wonderful. He was very amused by the fact that I was an American living in Tunis who spoke french and arabic. He himself spoke arabic, french, english, german, and italian, and every time he said something would say it three languages. He was just all around a very enthusiastic, friendly person, and i enjoyed talking to him. Before I got out he gave me this pamphlet he had (which is all in Arabic) with the president on the front and told me it had information about (if I understood correctly) handicapped persons in Tunisia. I don't know exactly why he gave it to me but I could tell he was trying to be friendly so I took it and thanked him.
When I got to the train station I had to wait a while to get my ticket because there was a Spanish family in front of me who were having some difficulties in speaking with the ticket guy. But they had two of the most adorable (and well dressed) littled girls I've seen and they provided quite a lot of entertainment. Unfortunately, as I don't speak Spanish, I wasn't able to chat with them.
The train ride back was uneventful but when I got into Tunis I decided to wander around looking for some buildings with contemporary architecture. While taking a picture of a really interesting building, I noticed a police man across the street waving me over. He told me that it is forbidden to take pictures of this building...I was a little incredulous but he repeated it and i wasn't trying to mess with a police officer. So i asked him what the building was and he told me in arabic but I didn't recognize the word, and he didn't know the word in french. so i explained to him why i was taking the pictures and how i'm studying in sidi bou, etc, and he told me he might be able to help me with my research. He was very friendly and i was glad not to have had my camera taken away so i agreed to take his phone number. After chatting for a few minutes he asked me to call his phone so he would have my number, and that's when i sensed things going down hill. he told me i was very beautiful and that i should call him. literally 100 ft down the street (while on the phone with jihed) he called me TWICE, consecutively. Since then he has also sent me a text message. i'm just hoping he'll get the idea if i don't respond. but seriously! a police officer!
anyway, that was my day. i had a lot of fun, and it was really exciting to practice so much of my arabic. now down to the business of writing a 25 page paper...
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Ok so i've been failing miserably at keeping up with this blog. But things have been a little hectic the past couple weeks since coming back from the northern excursion. We officially finished classes this friday and are now starting our independent research projects which are due may 8th. I have decided to study architecture in Tunisia, specifically the juxtaposition of contemporary and traditional architectural styles in the public sphere. I'm excited about it because I do love architecture and I think it will be interesting to tie it into the popular culture and anthropology based discussions we've been having in our classes. However I am really nervous because I've never had to write a paper this long (20 pages) and I'm not so great at time management.
In other news, I met a really great guy. He is Tunisian and his name is Jihed. He is studying in Carthage at the finances school and eventually wants to go into the microfinancing sector. He is an incredibly talented metal musician, writes for a metal webzine, reads french existentialist writers, is obsessed with the documentary zeitgeist, and the list could go on. Basically he is so smart and fun and I've been having a great time hanging out with him. I feel kind of bad though because I have not been in the house a lot and I hope that my host family is not getting annoyed by it.
Last night Jihed, his roommate, my friend Rachel, and I all went to see Anouar Braham in concert. He is a Tunisian eud player and composer and played with a bassist, bass clarinetist, and percussionist. The concert was breathtaking. His music might be best described as arab influenced jazz (?) and he played some music off his new album coming out in august. He is probably the most internationally known Tunisian musicians so it was really an incredible experience to see him in Tunisia, surrounded by Tunisians.
Yesterday afternoon I had another interesting cultural experience: going to the women's hamem (public baths) with my host mom. At first it was really overwhelming and intimidating but eventually I became more comfortable and really enjoyed it. It was so interesting to me to be in a place where there was absolutely no sense of modesty or shame about one's body (everyone was wearing only underwear) because in the public sphere, modesty is still somewhat expected. For example, my host mother does not wear a head scarf while in the house, but if someone rings the doorbell, she rushes to cover her hair before they come in, even though most visitors to our house are family. So it is just strange to me that covering one's hair is so important (mostly just among the older generations) yet there is no feeling of uncomfort in being essentially naked in front of complete strangers. In the US it's the complete opposite; women can walk around in tiny tank tops and tiny shorts but somehow it is taboo to be seen naked by anyone other than your immediate family or your partner. Anyway, I just found the whole experience fascinating. Plus there is a woman in the hamem who gives you a really intense exfoliating scrub which hurts a lot when she's doing it, but is really refreshing afterwards.
So that's about all that's new in my life here. My host sister's birthday is this tuesday so I am planning on making her cherry and pistachio cupcakes. I miss baking so it should be fun, I just hope I can figure out the names of the ingredients in french. I will try to be better about updating this now that I have more freetime...
In other news, I met a really great guy. He is Tunisian and his name is Jihed. He is studying in Carthage at the finances school and eventually wants to go into the microfinancing sector. He is an incredibly talented metal musician, writes for a metal webzine, reads french existentialist writers, is obsessed with the documentary zeitgeist, and the list could go on. Basically he is so smart and fun and I've been having a great time hanging out with him. I feel kind of bad though because I have not been in the house a lot and I hope that my host family is not getting annoyed by it.
Last night Jihed, his roommate, my friend Rachel, and I all went to see Anouar Braham in concert. He is a Tunisian eud player and composer and played with a bassist, bass clarinetist, and percussionist. The concert was breathtaking. His music might be best described as arab influenced jazz (?) and he played some music off his new album coming out in august. He is probably the most internationally known Tunisian musicians so it was really an incredible experience to see him in Tunisia, surrounded by Tunisians.
Yesterday afternoon I had another interesting cultural experience: going to the women's hamem (public baths) with my host mom. At first it was really overwhelming and intimidating but eventually I became more comfortable and really enjoyed it. It was so interesting to me to be in a place where there was absolutely no sense of modesty or shame about one's body (everyone was wearing only underwear) because in the public sphere, modesty is still somewhat expected. For example, my host mother does not wear a head scarf while in the house, but if someone rings the doorbell, she rushes to cover her hair before they come in, even though most visitors to our house are family. So it is just strange to me that covering one's hair is so important (mostly just among the older generations) yet there is no feeling of uncomfort in being essentially naked in front of complete strangers. In the US it's the complete opposite; women can walk around in tiny tank tops and tiny shorts but somehow it is taboo to be seen naked by anyone other than your immediate family or your partner. Anyway, I just found the whole experience fascinating. Plus there is a woman in the hamem who gives you a really intense exfoliating scrub which hurts a lot when she's doing it, but is really refreshing afterwards.
So that's about all that's new in my life here. My host sister's birthday is this tuesday so I am planning on making her cherry and pistachio cupcakes. I miss baking so it should be fun, I just hope I can figure out the names of the ingredients in french. I will try to be better about updating this now that I have more freetime...
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
the past week
i'm becoming increasingly bad about updating this, but my schedule has been a little hectic since my last post. A couple SIT directors and several study abroad advisers from various schools have been visiting all week. on sunday two of them came to my house for lunch which was really fun. one of them was the cutest little old man who teaches food anthropology at Spelman University. and it turns out he lives in the suburb of atlanta that my host family's oldest daughter and her husband live in. her husband is a portrait artist and my family gave this man the address of the studio so he can visit and be like "hey! i met your entire tunisian family!" small world.
on saturday i cooked my family a mexican (a la tunisian) meal. I made guacamole with some harissa (delicious!) and fajitas with chicken, peppers, and corn. There was a lot of improvising because you can't find tortillas or tortilla chips here. so instead we used big pitas for the fajitas, and cut them up into strips and baked them to make chips for the guacamole. i was pretty impressed with myself considering i've never really cooked a whole mexican meal for six people before. i thought it tasted pretty good, and my family seemed to like it, especially the guacamole. although they have a really hard time pronouncing it. that night my host brother took me, my host sister, and his wife to hammamet which is a really touristy town about an hour from here. it was pretty empty because it was cold and dark. there are tons of massive hotels with various themes (like one that looked like a legit sand castle). Then there is also a fake medina with a bunch of tourist shops and a hotel on top. this is situated next to a theme park called Carthage Land. it was really strange and so fake, but my host siblings couldn't understand why i thought so. then they took me to hammamet nord which is just a normal town but they kept saying that it was boring and that they like hammamet sud better. then on the drive home we had a mini-discotheque in the car with my host brother flashing the lights like a strobe.
the weather this week has finally gotten warmer. it's sooooo beautiful! i think its been around 65 degrees and sunny with a slight breeze. today after class i walked around in the sidi bou said park for a while and just listened to music. i also read a french cosmopolitan magazine which was interesting, but not nearly as racy as the american one.
i can't really think of anything else exciting that's happened in the last week. i think on friday mounir's son is going to take us out to a bar/restaurant/club called boeuf sur la toile (which literally features a giant cow sculpture sipping a martini on the roof). apparently they have live music which should be fun. i think that's all...
on saturday i cooked my family a mexican (a la tunisian) meal. I made guacamole with some harissa (delicious!) and fajitas with chicken, peppers, and corn. There was a lot of improvising because you can't find tortillas or tortilla chips here. so instead we used big pitas for the fajitas, and cut them up into strips and baked them to make chips for the guacamole. i was pretty impressed with myself considering i've never really cooked a whole mexican meal for six people before. i thought it tasted pretty good, and my family seemed to like it, especially the guacamole. although they have a really hard time pronouncing it. that night my host brother took me, my host sister, and his wife to hammamet which is a really touristy town about an hour from here. it was pretty empty because it was cold and dark. there are tons of massive hotels with various themes (like one that looked like a legit sand castle). Then there is also a fake medina with a bunch of tourist shops and a hotel on top. this is situated next to a theme park called Carthage Land. it was really strange and so fake, but my host siblings couldn't understand why i thought so. then they took me to hammamet nord which is just a normal town but they kept saying that it was boring and that they like hammamet sud better. then on the drive home we had a mini-discotheque in the car with my host brother flashing the lights like a strobe.
the weather this week has finally gotten warmer. it's sooooo beautiful! i think its been around 65 degrees and sunny with a slight breeze. today after class i walked around in the sidi bou said park for a while and just listened to music. i also read a french cosmopolitan magazine which was interesting, but not nearly as racy as the american one.
i can't really think of anything else exciting that's happened in the last week. i think on friday mounir's son is going to take us out to a bar/restaurant/club called boeuf sur la toile (which literally features a giant cow sculpture sipping a martini on the roof). apparently they have live music which should be fun. i think that's all...
Monday, March 2, 2009
I know it's been a while since my last post, but i just got back from an amazing week touring the south of tunisia. i will attempt to summarize, but please excuse the length of this post.
monday- We left sidi bou said early in the morning and headed to kairouan which is the fourth holiest city in islam, and site of the first mosque built in africa. we saw some ancient water cisterns, the shrine of an important islamic saint, and obviously the great mosque of kairouan. non-muslims are only allowed to enter the courtyard of the mosque, but not the inside of the prayer chamber. we also got to eat a tunisian pastry called makroud which is a sesame dough stuffed with date paste, fried, and covered in honey. kairouan is supposed to have the best makroud in the country...i would agree. from there we went to sbeitla where we saw the ruins of a roman village, featuring a temple, an amphitheatre, several churches, and lots of houses. We spent the night in Gafsa which is a fairly large city, but we didn't really have time to explore the city. we did however enjoy a rousing game of charades in the hotel.
tuesday- from gafsa we headed to tozeur, but on the way stopped in a small town (whose name i don't remember) to take a ride on the red lizard train. this is an old train used by miners to access the phosphorous mines. now it is a tourist destination. the views were really beautiful, and our assignment while on the train was to observe the other tourists. all of us commented on how we somehow wanted to set ourselves apart from them, because we feel like we are really "experiencing" tunisia, while they are just seeing it. When we got to Tozeur in the afternoon, we were split into two groups. my group was instructed to go to a museum called Chak Wak, which was constructed by a man in Tozeur with entirely too much money. it is literally the most bizarre place i have ever experienced. it is kind of like a theme park, but the theme changes halfway through from evolution to creationism. in the first part you walk into a cave with statues and pictures representing the evolution of man. then you walk on a path with lots of big dinosaurs. then you go to a petting zoo. then you go through a museum of all major religions. then you walk through the story of creation, noah's ark, and the family tree of all the prophets. then there is a large section on islam. not only did the whole place look and feel weird, they never attempted to explain how it all fit together, because most muslims do not find a conflict between science and religion. to get back to the hotel we were told to find a horse drawn cart (which we literally saw 20 of on the way to chakwak). however when we left the museum, we could not find one anywhere and ended up catching a ride with a random farmer who took all the grass/hay off his cart and took us back to the hotel. it was a little sketch but mostly really funny.
wednesday- in the morning we visited several oases near tozeur. they were neat but so infested with tourists that it wasn't all that fun. in the afternoon we went to visit the ong jemel star wards set whiich is out in the dunes. to get there, we rode in these jeeps that drove over the dunes, making the trip more or less like a roller coaster. the driver told us that this is really just to amuse tourists, and that you can easily drive through the area without going over the dunes. but i enjoyed it. the star wars set itself was small and not all that interesting, but it was neat to see how george lucas would have found the area convincing as another planet. the landscape is really other-worldly. we watched the sunset from atop a large sand dune.
thursday- in the morning we left tozeur to go to douz, another major southern city. there we were given a couple hours to explore the market. it was very touristy. but i ran into my friends dana and lindsay who had been off in search of a special southern tunisian pizza called mutugba. they asked a man at a restaurant who told them they would not find a restaurant that sold it, but that he could take them to a lady who sold them out of her home to her neighbours and friends. so they went and she told them to give her thirty minutes to make them. at which point i ran into them and joined them. when we returned to her house she sat us down in her living room and we ate the pizzas with the lady, her two daughters, and the baby of one of the daughters. she even invited us to come back for dinner but we were leaving douz in a couple of hours. it was such a cool experience and the pizza was delicious. it was basically chewy round bread stuffed with harissa, onions, and parsley. after that we set off to the desert where we went on an hour long camel ride to reach our sahara camp. my camel was not very happy because he was wearing a muzzle and therefore made weird groaning noises the entire time. the camp looks completely remote when you come in by camel, but we discovered when exploring the dunes that it was actually right next to a town of about 20,000. the camp consisted of a groups of large tents with beds and heaters, so it was not exactly what we had been expecting when we were told we'd be "camping in the sahara." but i didn't really mind, because nights in the desert are incredibly cold.
friday- in the morning we left the camp (on horse drawn carts) and then got back on the tour bus to go to djerba. along the way we stopped to see a troglodyte house which is a house built into the side of a hill. in this specific region of tunisia there is no rock or wood to build a house, so they dug cave-like houses. mounir knew a woman who has opened her private house to tourists to make a little extra money. she fed us homemade bread with honey and olive oil, and dressed up courtney in a traditional bride's outfit. when we got to djerba it was fairly late and we all were happy to have a hot shower and eat dinner.
saturday- we had all of saturday free to explore djerba on our own. we were staying in houmt-souk which is in the north of the island. we visited the marina, wandered around the city, and then caught a bus to a berber village in the south called gaulalla. everyone in the village was incredibly friendly and we wandered down some neighbourhood roads to find the beach. all of the kids in the street were completely amused to see a group of five americans walking down their street. a lot of the women in this village were dressed in traditional outfits which consisted of long white draped sheets with accents of orange, red, and maroon. they also wore straw hats. it was really nice to have a day just to explore without a structured schedule, and also to visit a place that wasn't so filled with tourists and things directed towards tourists. overall i loved the island because life was just so much slower paced there than in the city of tunis.
sunday- in the morning we got up early to make a stop at the ghriba synagogue which supposedly houses a stone from either the first or second jewish temple. djerba has a really high concentration of jews compared to the rest of tunisia, most of whom came from spain during the inquisition. about 10,000 jews come each spring on pilgrimage to visit this synagogue. it was incredibly ornate on the interior and very different from american temples. we were allowed to go in as long as the women wore scarves and the men wore kepas. then we drove to the ferry and headed back towards tunis. on the way we stopped at el-jem which is the second best preserved and third largest roman coliseum. it was really neat to see and also to explore, because we were given free reign. according to those in my group who have seen the coliseum in rome, you aren't allowed to access most of it. in this one we could climb on the ruins and even go underground to where they kept the gladiators, prisoners, and lions.
all in all it was a very fun but very exhausting trip. i think that's enough for one post...
monday- We left sidi bou said early in the morning and headed to kairouan which is the fourth holiest city in islam, and site of the first mosque built in africa. we saw some ancient water cisterns, the shrine of an important islamic saint, and obviously the great mosque of kairouan. non-muslims are only allowed to enter the courtyard of the mosque, but not the inside of the prayer chamber. we also got to eat a tunisian pastry called makroud which is a sesame dough stuffed with date paste, fried, and covered in honey. kairouan is supposed to have the best makroud in the country...i would agree. from there we went to sbeitla where we saw the ruins of a roman village, featuring a temple, an amphitheatre, several churches, and lots of houses. We spent the night in Gafsa which is a fairly large city, but we didn't really have time to explore the city. we did however enjoy a rousing game of charades in the hotel.
tuesday- from gafsa we headed to tozeur, but on the way stopped in a small town (whose name i don't remember) to take a ride on the red lizard train. this is an old train used by miners to access the phosphorous mines. now it is a tourist destination. the views were really beautiful, and our assignment while on the train was to observe the other tourists. all of us commented on how we somehow wanted to set ourselves apart from them, because we feel like we are really "experiencing" tunisia, while they are just seeing it. When we got to Tozeur in the afternoon, we were split into two groups. my group was instructed to go to a museum called Chak Wak, which was constructed by a man in Tozeur with entirely too much money. it is literally the most bizarre place i have ever experienced. it is kind of like a theme park, but the theme changes halfway through from evolution to creationism. in the first part you walk into a cave with statues and pictures representing the evolution of man. then you walk on a path with lots of big dinosaurs. then you go to a petting zoo. then you go through a museum of all major religions. then you walk through the story of creation, noah's ark, and the family tree of all the prophets. then there is a large section on islam. not only did the whole place look and feel weird, they never attempted to explain how it all fit together, because most muslims do not find a conflict between science and religion. to get back to the hotel we were told to find a horse drawn cart (which we literally saw 20 of on the way to chakwak). however when we left the museum, we could not find one anywhere and ended up catching a ride with a random farmer who took all the grass/hay off his cart and took us back to the hotel. it was a little sketch but mostly really funny.
wednesday- in the morning we visited several oases near tozeur. they were neat but so infested with tourists that it wasn't all that fun. in the afternoon we went to visit the ong jemel star wards set whiich is out in the dunes. to get there, we rode in these jeeps that drove over the dunes, making the trip more or less like a roller coaster. the driver told us that this is really just to amuse tourists, and that you can easily drive through the area without going over the dunes. but i enjoyed it. the star wars set itself was small and not all that interesting, but it was neat to see how george lucas would have found the area convincing as another planet. the landscape is really other-worldly. we watched the sunset from atop a large sand dune.
thursday- in the morning we left tozeur to go to douz, another major southern city. there we were given a couple hours to explore the market. it was very touristy. but i ran into my friends dana and lindsay who had been off in search of a special southern tunisian pizza called mutugba. they asked a man at a restaurant who told them they would not find a restaurant that sold it, but that he could take them to a lady who sold them out of her home to her neighbours and friends. so they went and she told them to give her thirty minutes to make them. at which point i ran into them and joined them. when we returned to her house she sat us down in her living room and we ate the pizzas with the lady, her two daughters, and the baby of one of the daughters. she even invited us to come back for dinner but we were leaving douz in a couple of hours. it was such a cool experience and the pizza was delicious. it was basically chewy round bread stuffed with harissa, onions, and parsley. after that we set off to the desert where we went on an hour long camel ride to reach our sahara camp. my camel was not very happy because he was wearing a muzzle and therefore made weird groaning noises the entire time. the camp looks completely remote when you come in by camel, but we discovered when exploring the dunes that it was actually right next to a town of about 20,000. the camp consisted of a groups of large tents with beds and heaters, so it was not exactly what we had been expecting when we were told we'd be "camping in the sahara." but i didn't really mind, because nights in the desert are incredibly cold.
friday- in the morning we left the camp (on horse drawn carts) and then got back on the tour bus to go to djerba. along the way we stopped to see a troglodyte house which is a house built into the side of a hill. in this specific region of tunisia there is no rock or wood to build a house, so they dug cave-like houses. mounir knew a woman who has opened her private house to tourists to make a little extra money. she fed us homemade bread with honey and olive oil, and dressed up courtney in a traditional bride's outfit. when we got to djerba it was fairly late and we all were happy to have a hot shower and eat dinner.
saturday- we had all of saturday free to explore djerba on our own. we were staying in houmt-souk which is in the north of the island. we visited the marina, wandered around the city, and then caught a bus to a berber village in the south called gaulalla. everyone in the village was incredibly friendly and we wandered down some neighbourhood roads to find the beach. all of the kids in the street were completely amused to see a group of five americans walking down their street. a lot of the women in this village were dressed in traditional outfits which consisted of long white draped sheets with accents of orange, red, and maroon. they also wore straw hats. it was really nice to have a day just to explore without a structured schedule, and also to visit a place that wasn't so filled with tourists and things directed towards tourists. overall i loved the island because life was just so much slower paced there than in the city of tunis.
sunday- in the morning we got up early to make a stop at the ghriba synagogue which supposedly houses a stone from either the first or second jewish temple. djerba has a really high concentration of jews compared to the rest of tunisia, most of whom came from spain during the inquisition. about 10,000 jews come each spring on pilgrimage to visit this synagogue. it was incredibly ornate on the interior and very different from american temples. we were allowed to go in as long as the women wore scarves and the men wore kepas. then we drove to the ferry and headed back towards tunis. on the way we stopped at el-jem which is the second best preserved and third largest roman coliseum. it was really neat to see and also to explore, because we were given free reign. according to those in my group who have seen the coliseum in rome, you aren't allowed to access most of it. in this one we could climb on the ruins and even go underground to where they kept the gladiators, prisoners, and lions.
all in all it was a very fun but very exhausting trip. i think that's enough for one post...
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
baby shower!
Last night I went to the baby shower (sort of) of my host sister. In tunisia they have this part seven days after the baby is born, rather than before like in the US. Instead of bringing presents, people just put money in the baby's crib. this way there is some level of anonymity and everyone just puts in what they can afford (mostly 5 or 10 dinar). It was really overwhelming when we walked in because there were approximately 40 women (mostly in their 30's and 40's) sitting in the front room, and i didn't know any of them. Thus i spent the majority of the party in the kitchen, helping prepare the food and drinks as well as doing dishes. They served three different types of homemade juice/punch, various tunisian pastries, and a dish made specifically for baby showers called zhreer. it's a thick paste made with hazelnuts, butter, and sugar. it's absolutely delicious and is served in tiny gold cups that have no other purpose than for serving zhreer. Tunisians seem to have a thing for beautiful, small dishes. tea is always served in tiny decorative cups. After helping in the kitchen, i went into the bedroom where the mother stays through out the party. She lies in the bed with the baby next to her and everyone comes in to visit her and the baby. It was really cute to see all the little kids on the bed, completely intrigued by the baby. After most people left, and it was just family, we had a big dinner together. the whole thing was pretty exhausting but i really enjoyed witnessing that sort of tradition. i'm hoping that at some point i'll also get to see a wedding.
it's still raining, and its getting pretty old. we're all ready for some sun and warmer temperatures. then we all plan on spending a lot of time on the beach. and i think it will be a lot warmer when we go to the south. which is monday! i can't wait!
it's still raining, and its getting pretty old. we're all ready for some sun and warmer temperatures. then we all plan on spending a lot of time on the beach. and i think it will be a lot warmer when we go to the south. which is monday! i can't wait!
Sunday, February 15, 2009
my flickr account
For some reason my blog's slideshow application is not recognizing my flickr username, so instead you can just copy and paste this link to see my pictures. i will be adding more soon...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35394020@N06/
Also today I went to the sunday market in my town and it was a fascinating experience. It basically consists of hundreds of tables in a huge dirt lot (which was mostly mud today due to the copious amounts of rain we've received this week). The wares range from fruits and vegetables, to mounds and mounds of used clothing, to random electronic devices and household appliances. I bought a large green coat so I can stop borrowing my host sister's jacket. I don't think anyone in my group realized how cold it was going to be. Then we walked to the beach where we found a camel just hanging out. Then we ate at a delicious pizza restaurant.
I spent the rest of my day at home with my host sister and we had a really good discussion about gender relations in Tunisia, as well as about the cultural paradox that exists in Tunisian culture. By that I mean that Tunisians are fascinated by European and American pop culture, especially music, but they still cling on to some really traditional ideas about gender roles. Then when my host father came home, we talked a lot of politics and such over dinner. He even opened a bottle of wine for us to drink with dinner, which was really unexpected because I thought my family was fairly traditional. However my host mom, who is more religious, was not home and probably would not have approved had she been present. this is another of the tunisian cultural paradoxes, because alcohol is technically forbidden in islam. however, the majority of tunisians are non-practicing. it's really fascinating to experience this mix of european and arab cultures.
So overall i had a great day. i hope you enjoy perusing my pictures!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35394020@N06/
Also today I went to the sunday market in my town and it was a fascinating experience. It basically consists of hundreds of tables in a huge dirt lot (which was mostly mud today due to the copious amounts of rain we've received this week). The wares range from fruits and vegetables, to mounds and mounds of used clothing, to random electronic devices and household appliances. I bought a large green coat so I can stop borrowing my host sister's jacket. I don't think anyone in my group realized how cold it was going to be. Then we walked to the beach where we found a camel just hanging out. Then we ate at a delicious pizza restaurant.
I spent the rest of my day at home with my host sister and we had a really good discussion about gender relations in Tunisia, as well as about the cultural paradox that exists in Tunisian culture. By that I mean that Tunisians are fascinated by European and American pop culture, especially music, but they still cling on to some really traditional ideas about gender roles. Then when my host father came home, we talked a lot of politics and such over dinner. He even opened a bottle of wine for us to drink with dinner, which was really unexpected because I thought my family was fairly traditional. However my host mom, who is more religious, was not home and probably would not have approved had she been present. this is another of the tunisian cultural paradoxes, because alcohol is technically forbidden in islam. however, the majority of tunisians are non-practicing. it's really fascinating to experience this mix of european and arab cultures.
So overall i had a great day. i hope you enjoy perusing my pictures!
Saturday, February 14, 2009
a week of celebrations
This week has been a little hectic seeing as it was our first week of classes. Also, my host family's daughter (who lives a couple blocks away and is also hosting a student) gave birth to a little baby girl on wednesday! i got to go to the hospital to see her on wednesday night. since then my host mom and sister have been over at their house a lot, just helping out.
On tuesday, one of the students in my group, Bradley, celebrated his 21st birthday, and our families decided to throw him a surprise birthday party. my family and i made the cake which was chocolate with whipped cream, hazelnuts, and strawberry jam. it was literally the most fun and energetic birthday party i've ever been to. they played a lot of american hip hop music and even brad's host grandmother got up to dance with him. everyone just cheered and clapped the entire time and it was great to see how quickly everyone had bonded with their families.
On thursday we had our first oriental dance class which was really fun. it took a while to be able to not laugh at myself in the mirror, but after i got over that i really enjoyed it. our teacher is hilarious and flamboyant, and i don't think i've ever seen a man shake his hips as well as he can. the dance is basically exactly what you would think of when hearing oriental dance; there's a lot of hip shaking and arm twirling involved. at the end of the semester we will be performing a routine for all of our families
Yesterday, we had to find our way to Tunis for a lecture at CEMAT, the center for maghreb and arabic studies. i went with my friends dana and sam, and we got to tunis just fine, but then took about 30 minutes to find the place. after the lecture we had the rest of the afternoon off and were free to explore the city. the boys who are taking percussion classes had to buy darbouka drums in the medina, and the girls had to buy jingling scarves for our dance classes. the medina is so fascinating and overwhelming. it's comprised of a maze of winding stone streets filled with little touristy shops selling hookas, bags, ceramics, etc. then after a certain point you reach the part of the medina where tunisians actually shop, which features a lot of clothing and household item stores. we ate a tiny hole in the wall restaurant where i ate a chawerma sandwich. it was delicious. after that we went back to sidi bou said and hung out at our favourite cafe and sheesha place.
On tuesday, one of the students in my group, Bradley, celebrated his 21st birthday, and our families decided to throw him a surprise birthday party. my family and i made the cake which was chocolate with whipped cream, hazelnuts, and strawberry jam. it was literally the most fun and energetic birthday party i've ever been to. they played a lot of american hip hop music and even brad's host grandmother got up to dance with him. everyone just cheered and clapped the entire time and it was great to see how quickly everyone had bonded with their families.
On thursday we had our first oriental dance class which was really fun. it took a while to be able to not laugh at myself in the mirror, but after i got over that i really enjoyed it. our teacher is hilarious and flamboyant, and i don't think i've ever seen a man shake his hips as well as he can. the dance is basically exactly what you would think of when hearing oriental dance; there's a lot of hip shaking and arm twirling involved. at the end of the semester we will be performing a routine for all of our families
Yesterday, we had to find our way to Tunis for a lecture at CEMAT, the center for maghreb and arabic studies. i went with my friends dana and sam, and we got to tunis just fine, but then took about 30 minutes to find the place. after the lecture we had the rest of the afternoon off and were free to explore the city. the boys who are taking percussion classes had to buy darbouka drums in the medina, and the girls had to buy jingling scarves for our dance classes. the medina is so fascinating and overwhelming. it's comprised of a maze of winding stone streets filled with little touristy shops selling hookas, bags, ceramics, etc. then after a certain point you reach the part of the medina where tunisians actually shop, which features a lot of clothing and household item stores. we ate a tiny hole in the wall restaurant where i ate a chawerma sandwich. it was delicious. after that we went back to sidi bou said and hung out at our favourite cafe and sheesha place.
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